Into the pit

from the shoulder I stare

Shall I take that chance of buyer beware.

It pitches and throws

a cylindrical eye

it looks back at me

as if wanting to try.

Muster my spirit

and suck it up tight

to give it a go

as I scream with delight.

Paddle to the peak

look for a take off that's sweet

no time for regret

or way of retreat.

Here comes my chance

on the watery hill

heart begins pumping

now starts the thrill.

Paddle hard

then to my feet I will jump

as the wave begins to

throw, suck and pump.

Down to the bottom

up to the top

off the lip,

then I drop.

Digging my rail hard on the edge

rise to the crest

a lined up ledge.

Screaming hard

along the wall

it throws a big lip

wide and tall

Aiming my board

toward the watery bliss

when I hear the wave

cracking, thunder and hiss.

The wave is closing out

and the light begins to soften

I say my prayers,

good night,

from my hydrocoffin.